WAVES and TIDES: Sverdrup et al, Chapter 8; omit sections 8.5, 8.7, 8.11, 8.16; be sure to read section on Tsunami Warning System (p. 193-194)

Objectives: students should be able to

1. describe the characteristics of waves
2. discuss and define the differences between deep and shallow water waves
3. describe the formation of wind-driven waves and tsunamis
4. describe the interaction between waves and coastlines
5. discuss the forces that produce tides, including neap and spring tides

6. describe characteristics of semidiurnal, diurnal and mixed tides

7. discuss the impact that tides have on rivers and inlets

WAVES

Characteristics

• Crest, trough, wavelength, wave height, wave period
• Circular motion of water molecules

Deep water waves

• Precise definition
• All wind generated waves in open ocean
• Sea vs. swell
• What determines wave height and wave speed?

Shallow water waves

• Precise definition
• Varieties of surf
• What determines wave speed?
• Wave refraction along irregularly shaped coastlines

Other ocean waves:

• TSUNAMIS: causes; differences with wind-driving waves

TIDES

Forces: gravitational and centrifugal

Equilibrium tides: water covered, no-friction earth

· Be able to draw position of earth, moon, sun, and water bulges

· Spring vs. neap tides

Dynamic tides: real world; modified by orbits, declination, shape of basin

· Diurnal, semidiurnal, and mixed tides

· Tides in bays with inlets: ebb and flood tidal currents, slack water

· Tidal bores